07 Days Everest Panorama Trek

Day 01: Sat, 19th July 2008: KTM -Lukla -Phakding

Team Member/s:

Jack Coffin - Traveller

Krishna Lamsal -Guide

Leave for Kathmandu airport at around 05:00AM. I am always used to hate fordealing with taxi drivers because I am always used to feel being cheated while I used them. At the time, I didn't think that I wasn't feeling being cheated. I paid NRS 350, which was reasonable because the time was early in the morning "night" time according them, just fuel price hiked and fuel shortage. By all of these, I felt that was reasonable. Next thing we did, we flew Lukla on time (It's normal to be late at least 15-20 minutes than mention time and it's rare to fly on mentioned time). Next thing we did, the plane took only 28 minutes to reach Lukla. Normall I had experienced be taking 35-40 minutes. It seems trekking will be favoulous because things are moving by the plan. We took breakfast once we arrived in Lukla. The weather was excellent. The weather was pretty fine even if we were trekking in Moonsun season. After breakfast, we started to walk from Lukla at 08:00AM. The walking speed was as if we could reach Namche same day even though Namche was our next day's destination. We took only one and half hour to reach Phakding. We could reach Namche if we had iven the walk continue but I didn't talked about that topic with Jack because that was our first day trek. Jack took nap and I tok my lunch once we arrived at Phakding. After lunch, we did side trip around Phakding. The Pema Chholing Monastery is one of the attraction in Phakding. Yeah, it's preety hard and longer walk (probably 250m up and about one hour hike) but worth to visit for whom love Buddhism religion and monasteries. After spinning prayer wheels and taking some pricutres, we returned to teahouse and took rest until dinner time. There wer four trekkers on the teahouses and chat for long; especially by Jack. Jack is one of the funny and talkative guy I had ever trekked. He could make friend once he meet the people. I also was introduced with many trekers by Jack. We played a card game named KING with them.

Day 02: Sun, 20th July, 2008: Phakding -Namche
Started our walk Seven-thirty, thirty minutes later than our fixed time because of the rain. Passed the village called Benkar and reached Monjo at where we took entrance permit of Everest national park. We had good walking pace. We reached Namche at 11:20AM, less than four hours. The average time duration for Phakding to Namche is five hours and normally I had taken seven hours for the same route with two Aussies and eight hours with English woman. Today we missed many mountains, including mighty Everest because of clouds but we had good time during walking. The rain started once we arrived at Namche. THanks to the weather because I had left to pack m rainjacket unfortunately. Took lunch, nap and did short walk. We took bakery items in German Bakery (don't think that how German people are doing thier business in Namche, that is just brand name of Hermann Helmer Bakery) which was really nice bakery. There were four trekkers in teahouse in Namche as well. Jack is lucky because he had met the people from his country all way up. Chatted with them, took dinner and went bed.

Day 03: Mon, 21st July, 2008: Namche -Tengboche

Woke up 04:30AM and checked the weather frequently but completely cloudy with no rain. After breakfast, started to walk at 08:00AM. The first fifteen minutes was really struggling. Jack started to sweat and his face became red because of the hard walk. After than the walk was fine. Crossed Kyanjuma (the first village settlement after Namche) and way down to Phunki Tenga. Took rest and had a coconut cronchy before starting to attempt the uphill; dificult part of our today's walk. That was really difficult; more difficult than yesterday (the way up to Namche from Phakding). Attempted that damn uphill in one hour. Tried to checked in to diffrent lodges but almost were closed. Luckily, one teahouse near to Monastery was open! After taking lunch and about three hours nap we entered to Tengboche Monastery and spent about an hour there. Took some pictures and special ceremony of monks chanting then back to teahouse. After some discussion, we came into point to change our mentioned plan (our previous plan was reaching to Tengboche and same way back to Khumjung!). According to our new plan, we will be reached to Pangboche at where there is a nice Sherpa village and famous Pangboche monastery.

Day 04: Tue, 22nd July 2008: Tengboche to Mongla

I woke up at 04:30AM and checked the weather which was completely cloudy. Fortunately, it was opened for a moment (merely five minutes!). That's the first time we saw snow capped mountain (Mount Everest and more!). Jack was so excited when he saw Mount Everest but the view closed immediately by cloud. After that, we headed on to Pangboche village, spent few minutes and returned by way up to Phortse. The walk from Pangboche to Phortse was awful. Arrived in Phortse village with drowsy, tried to take lunch but here was also same problem, almost teahouses were closed due to offseason. Luckily the Phortse Guest House was opened. The owner of the lodge was same to whom we met in Kathmandu Airport when we were flying to Lukla and we had helped her to carry her some of stuffs. Had lunch and way down to Phortse Tenga. After passing 2o minutes downhill, we reach Phortse Tenga (3600m) from where we had to climb Mongla (3975m) within an hour. Our walking speed was unbelivable, we reached to Mongla top in less than 45 minutes. Our overnight stop place (Khumjung Village) was still next an hour downhill but we made our mind to stay at Mongla quickly and checked in to Teahouse. There was nothing to do because when we reached at Mongla, started to rain and full of cloudy.

Day 05: Wed, 23rd July 2008: Mongla -Namche

Unfortunately, there was full of cloud and raining sincethe morning. That was unfortunately because I had forgotten to pack my rain jacket. Waited till 07:45AM but still rain so headed down to Khumjung village. After an hour continuously downhill (including 20 minutes uphill near to village) we reached Khumjung village and explored around (the Khumjung village and more...). Then walked upto the hills and way down to Namche Bazaar. Hada look to Museum and checked in to teahouse. Evening we chatted with two Lithunian guys; one was doctor and next one was former Defense Secretory according them. First, we didn't knew that he was that high figure. We introduced each other by name and i compared his name with Russian name but he was so aggressive. I cursed myself, lack of knowledge foreign affairs among the countries. Jack and he started to talk about the politics specially defense and foreign affaris of US, Russia and China. Middle of the tak, we knwe that he was former Defense Secretary. At that time, I remembered my former boss who is now Counselor of Nepal to Lithunia.

Day 06: Thu, 24th July 2008: Namche to Lukla

14 Days Everest Base Camp Trek

01 June, 08: Kathmanadu -Lukla -Phakding

I was exciting about the thirty -five minutes flight journey from Kathmandu to Lukla since the trip confirmation because that was my first experience to be in plane. The thirty -five minutes flight was the combination of joy, fear and excitement even though we flew later than the departure time due to the weather problem in Lukla. It's normal to be late few hours normally remote part of Nepal such as Lukla, Jomsom, Tumlingtar etc. Thank's god! We just twenty minutes later than mentioned time. We landed Lukla airstrip and informed in Kathmandu office that we arrived Lukla safely. Then packed the bag, took breakfast and carried on to Phakding which was our last destination for the day. We again met two Spanish people to whom we had met at Kathmandu airport and had flown Lukla together. Sometime we were further on, sometime they were further on. The trail was almost gently up; nomore steep up and downhill so we hadn't any big problem. We reached Phakding earlier and took lunch. After having few rest. We walked around Phakding to adjust the altitude and walking habit for next day. Then returned to lodge, took dinner and went bed earlier because she was tired and our next day walk was long and difficult as well.

02 June, 2008: Phakding -Namche
I already had encouraged Teresa to start our trek as earlier as possible because the walking trail was one of the hardest among fourteen days; especially after the lunch place called Jorsalle. I woke up early morning and knocked her. Both of us came to dining. I took my breakfast but she just took hot drink and carried on to Namche. Both of us were worrying about her cold and how long will it affect her. Out walking speed was fine but below than average. We took breakfast at Monjo; an hour before than the lunch place. Then we continue walked Jorsalle -a lunch place; because once can't find the eating place in between Jorsalle to Namche. From here, she started to struggle even though the trail was gradually up. We still had to walk steep up from intersection of Dudhkoshi and Bhotekoshi River to Namche. I remembered my last trip with two Aussie ladies. The only difference was they had faced diarehea and tired but she had faced cold and tired. I had no hope that she'll finish her 14 days trek but what I thought; tomorrow is rest day ; let's see what happen. Finally, we arrived at Namche with full of struggle. I recommended herto take soup item and hot drink when we reached Namche. Overnight stayed at Namche.

03: Rest day at Namche Bazar

I woke up at 04:30AM and checked the weather condition regular as according our yesterday's plan and Teresa's condition as well. Unfortunately! both of the conditions were not permitted us to go up to see the view. The weather was cloudy and Teresa had been facing the problem of cold, headache, stomachache, ey swolen and so on. I was on confused; what's going on! So we went to health post and checked the pressure whether she has altitude sickness or not. Thanks god! She hadn't any problem of high altitude. The person of health post gave a medicine (expensive!) but that really didn't worked. Her condition was worser in every moment. She was struggling even for few steps walk. I was in confusion; what to do and what not to do. Finally, I decided to give her Diamox and took complete rest for that day.

04 June, 2008: Namche to Tengboche

The plan was not fixed till in the morning; whether return back to Lukla or going up to Tengboche. I knocked her and saw that she was packing the bag actively. What I thought; we are going up. We met dining and discussed about our plan. We decided to go up until she struggle too much. If she struggle too much to reach Tengboche, we have to return back. After breakfast, leaved Namche at 07:45AM. The first 15 minutes was struggling because of steep up but after that the trail was gradually up until Kyangjuma; the next settlement. From Kyangjuma, the trail was mixed; flat and gently down until Sanasa and then downhill to Phunki Tenga. We were walking on slow pace, she was feeling better and we reached Phunki Tenga 01:30hr after from Kyangjuma. Took lunch and carried on to Tengboche at 12:00PM. It was all way up to reach Tengboche. We gained 600m altitude in 01:45hr. Checked in to lodge and attended at meditation session. Overnight stayed at Tengboche.

Day 05: Tengboche to Dingboche

Till yesterday, my concern was on Teresa's condition but now my next concern was on views of Himalayas including mighty Everest. We hadn't seen any snow-covered mountain so we had to see these views today anyway and the Tengboche is the place from where we can see the most breathtaking mountain panorama in the world. I woke up at 04:30AM with alaram and checked the weather, which was brilliant. I knocked Teresa. That was the first time she had seen the snow-covered mountain on the way up. We saw the good view of Mount Everest, Mount Lhotse, Mount Amadablam, Kangtega and Thamserku. But no longer the weather permitted ups to see that. The weather became completely cloudy before 05:00AM. Then returned to lodge and tried to order breakfast but nobody of kitchen staff had woke up so went bed again.

10 June, 2008: Gorakshep -Thukla
I was woke up lately that morning because we had no rush; just to Pheriche. I estimated; we will walk not more than six hours. Took breakfast and packed the bag, then started to walk at 08:00AM. The weather was clear and we had good view of Mount Everest, Mount Nuptse and other mountains till the middle of the trail to Lobuche. Reached Lobuche at 10:00AM and again headed on to Thukla. Reached Thukla at 11:15Am and had lunch. I was worried about the quantity of water at Dudhkoshi River because the bridge was smill but quantity of water had increased due to the sunny day. Normally, in mountain the quantity of water are used to increase in day time due to melt the snow. Before head on, I checked with them (at where we took lunch) about the situation. They said fine. Moved toward the river but unfortunately the quantity of wather in river was massive. After some debate with Teressa, we decided not to move further on so returned at Thukla and overnight stayed.

11 June, 2008: Thukla to Tengboche
I wa swoke up at 05:00AM with my alaram and walked to the river to check the amount of water which was lesser than yesterday. Returned to tea house, took a cup of tea and waited for breakfast time of 06:30AM. The weather in morning was cleared. Leaved tea house at 07:00AM, hardly crossed the river and reached Pheriche. Took a cup of tea and again headed on... Crossed two villages; Shomare and Pangboche (we took lunch at Pangboche and headed on to Tengboche at 12:40PM!) and reached to Tengboche at 02:10PM. Our overnight stay place was not fixed. We were thinking to move Phunki Tenga as we were trying to shortenshorten our last day of the trip but unfortunately few water drops started to fall on so we changed our plan and stayed at Tengboche.

12 June, 2008: Tengboche to Phakding
13 June, 2008: Phakding to Lukla
14-15 June, 2008: Lukla
16 June, 2008: Lukla to Kathmandu

27 Days escaped from Kathmandu!

Well, after long gap, now, I am returning back at my blog. Because of the lack of internet facilities, huge internet fee per minute even if available and slow speed, i couldn't update my words and picture whilst on trekking route. I am returning back after 27 days and trying to post some words about the trekking.

After long conflict for either being guide in Annapurna Region and porter in Everest Region, i decided to be porter. Why I choosed this trek? The important thing was Everest Base Camp is one of the 10 things to do before die whilst Annapurna Region is one of 20 things to do before die. The difficult and adventurous part of the second option was drive from Kathmandu to Jiri and walking to Lukla in stead of flying within thirty five minutes. Normal duration is one day drive plus seven days to reach Surkey (near Lukla!) but it took me one day drive plus two and half days walking.

23 April, 2008
The first day I departed from Kathmandu at 08:45Am and reached Jiri at 08:00PM because of the traffic problem here in Nepal. I felt hard for choosing the lodge because it was first time for me at Jiri. Fortunately, I easily choosed however that was not so good but I got my basic need. It's enough to get basic needs in and around mountain.

24 April, 2008
Left from Jiri at early morning at 06:00AM and reached the next town called Shivalaya in two hours. Shivalaya is the stop point for trekkers if they start their trek from Jiri. One hour up walk and crossing the Deurali Top, then the trail lead me down to Bhandar the next stop point. Took lunch at Bhandar and again started my walk towards Sete which took me about next four hours. Between Bhandar and Sete, there is a place called Kinja at where I met a good company, named Devendra who were also planning to go Lukla. Thanks god! We decided to go little bit up to Gurase (to make my next day trip shorter!), next fourty-five minutes walk from Sete. Overnight stayed at Gurase with my company. The time was around 05:30PM

25 April, 2008
Too much tired today because of the long walk, more or less twelve hours including rest and lunch time. Both legs were soaring but I had no option to walk so started to walk at early morning at 05:30AM with my company. He encouraged me to walk! Crossed the Lamjura Pass (3250m) and walked down to Junbesi. After crossing the Junbesi, the trail lead us to Ringmo at where we took lunch at 12:00PM. After crossing the Taksindo La (at where nice monastery located on the top of Taksindo), the trail lead us to Nunthala, the knee cracking descent of Nunthala, we entered to Juving at where we spent our overnight stay.

26 April, 2008
The amount of leg soaring was increased day by day because we were walking Nepalese walk, double speed than of other trekkers! Started the trek at early morning, nearly the same time of yesterday. Crossed the few flat step, then the trail lead us to up, flat and gently down to the Kharikhola. After few walk, we can see the Surkey at down and Lukla -our final destination at the level of us but we had go down to Surkey and climbed up to Lukla. More or less, the trail from Jiri to Lukla is almost up and down merely flat trail. You have to think go down if you are climbing up and go up if you are going down. We reached Lukla at 03:00PM. Met with J.B. (guide for 19 days Gokyo Valley -Chola Pass Trek!) and discussed about the tomorrows trip. We had to meet the clients at Lukla Airport tomorrow. Lukla Bazaar was absolutely new for me.

27 April, 2008
I was exciting to meet with clients so woke up at early morning. Washed my hair, shaved and walked to Airport at 06:00AM. The distance between our lodge and airport was merely five minutes. The first flight of Agni Air arrived at 06:30AM and next one flight was of Sita Air. I was confused from which flight were they coming! Exit from airport to call at office but no phone were working at that moment. Tried to re-enter airport but couldn't succeed because of the security check. Shit..... I forgot to carry my airport pass. Hundreds of porter were standing outside of the airport waiting for job and they allowed to enter inside if some bag have arrived. At about 07:00AM, the second flight of Sita Air arrived and I was looking to them. Two young girls landed, I guessed they must be our clients because their face matched with the picture of passport copies at where I saw in Kathmandu office. My guess came true! Finally, I entered to airport to receive bag, then exchanged greeting and exist from Airport and went to hotel to manage the bag. We adjusted the bag and started to walk at nearly 09:00AM.

Team Members:
01. Stefaine Butler -Client
02. Leanne Brady -Client
03. J.B. Rai -Guide
04. Krishna Lamsal -Porter

Our four people team started to walk toward Phakding. J.B. walked forward as a guide, two clients were behind of him and I was at last of them. The team structure was perfect! The structure didn't changed even in end of the trip. Took lunch at Thadokosi and overnight stayed at Phakding!

28 April, 2008
Leaved Phakding, walked through gently up way to Monjo, took permit and checked TIMS certificate and forwarded to Jorsalle, our lunch place. Few walk after lunch, the trail was really struggle for about two hours until reached Namche. This day we saw many famous mountains including mighty Everest as well. First we saw Thamserku then Khumbi La, then Kusum Kangaroo and finally top of the World -Mount Everest with blowing cloud. After 07 hours strugling, we reached Namche (3440m)-our stop point for today and tomorrow. Overnight stayed at Namche.

29 April, 2008
Today is rest day at Namche. The day for Museum, good view point and to Everest View Hotel -an expensive hotel among whole Everest region. It is the tea/coffee place for most of the trekkers who spend thier time down part of Namche and want to see Mount Everest from here. Unfortunately, I couldn't made it because one of our team member couldn't made it and I followed her to go down to Namche.

08 May, 2008: Phortse -Pangboche -Dingboche
Normally, ou trek starting time was not earlier than 07:45AM. After breakfast, we started to walk up the hill. The first 20 minutes uphill was struggling. After that the trail was mixed; flat, gradually up and gently downhill. Along the trail, there wer good view of Thamserku, Kangtega, Amadablam, Lhotse, Nuptse and finally Mount Everest. We could also saw Tengboche village and monastery right side of us. Himalayan Thar (mountain goat), Pheasant (our national bird -typically called Danfe!) also could be seen along the trail. After 02:45hrs we reached Upper Pangboche village. Had Lunch and headed on to Dingboche. More or less the trail was gradually up to reach Shomare (a small settlement after Pangboche at where we could find few teahouses). From Shomare the trail was all way up to reach Dingboche which took us one and half hour to Shomare and next quarter to two hours to reach Dingboche . Overnight stayed at teahouses.
Dingboche is big settlement of many lodges and cyber and telephone call facilities (always be mentally ready that you may not have cyber and telephone facilities wherever you need because the service is not permanent). July and August hey can't cook food inside the town because if they produce any smoke in mentioned time; no crops will be produced -it's the saying of Sherpa culture -the majority ethnic group of Khumbu region.

Ghorepani -Ghandruk Trek -3

Nagarkot -Chisapani Trek

08 Days Nepal Tour

17 Nov, 2007: Kathmandu City Sightseeing
Pashupati, Kathmandu Durbar Square

18 Nov, 2007: Kathmandu to Bhaktapur to Nagarkot

19 Nov, 2007: Nagarkot to Kathmandu

20 Nov, 2007: Kathmandu -Pokhara
Started to drive from the office at 08:45 in the morning and visited Patan Durbar Square. Then started to drive 200KM way towards to Pokhara. Our plan were visiting Patan, Manakamana and to reach Pokhara same day but the plan didn't went well because we leaved from Kathmandu nearly an hour late than mentioned time. That day, we just reached Pokhara at and thought different programs for next day but couldn't finalized the plan. Overnight stayed at pre-booked Hotel Kantipur.

21 Nov, 2007: Pokhara -Manakamana -Pokhara

Our transportation had not fixed till the morning because I had not got any green signal from Dheeraj (one of the group member!). After some discussion with us, we finalized to hire a hiace and I left the hotel in search of hiace in costy Pokhara. I got it and fixed the time at 09:30AM but unfortunately they didn't came on time. We waited, waited and waited but they didn't came till 10:30 so Dheeraj decided to hire taxi. The agreed hiace came to us while we were in taxi and they started to say here and there. After some bad discuss among Dheeraj, the hiace owner and me we left them and headed on to Manakamana from Pokhara at 10:45Am and took us to reach there about 02:30hrs by taxi. Took cable car ride which costs NRS320 per person. Spent time in cable care at about 30 minutes and walked up ten minutes from cable car station then finally we reached the beautiful Manakamana temple and saw panoramic mountain views from there. Manakamana is specially for religious site for Hinduism so we (all of five group members and me!) worshipped the god, asked whatever we needed. After finished the puja ceremony, we left Manakamana and its nice surroundings, we took 20 minutes cable car drive down to taxi stand and drove to Pokhara. Overnight stayed at Hotel Kantipur.

22 Nov, 2007: Pokhara Sightseeing & to Lumbini
Woke up at 04:45Am and drove to Sarangkot (1592m). After thirty minutes drive by taxi, we reached the end of the road and walked up few minutes. The Himalayas view of Annapurna South, Annapurna First, Hiunchuli, Machhapuchre, Annapurna Third, Annapurna Fourth, Annapurna Second, Lamjung Himal and Manaslu were fantastic. We could see Dhaulagiri if we would have reached on the top of view point but we couldn't attempted top of the hill because of walking conditions of group members. Few minutes after Sun rose, we drove down. On the way backed to Pokhara we visited Vindyabasini temple, K.I Singh Bridge (from where nice Seti george of 30 meter down can be seen), Mahendra Cave (can go 200m inside) and to Bat Cave Entering was easy as we (me and Amit -one of the group member) rented the flashlight near the entrance gate and walked inside. The cave was still dark even though we had flashlight. There were thousands of bats on the ceiling of cave. We had an adventerous experience while we reached near existing point of cave. The existing whole was small with sharp rocks. First I tried to exist for Amit but in the middle, neither he could exist nor went back. I was worried because he started to cry. With the help of mine and other members, he finally existed from the whole. Then I tried to exist. That was really difficult to exist for sure. After that, we headed on to Davis Fall including Wish Pool inside the surrounding of Davis Fall. Dropping the coin in the pool and keep staying the coin in the fixed place was really interesting. According the saying, if once can drop and keep staying the coin properly, his wishes become fulfilled. Then boated on Fewa Lake (to and from Barahi Temple -which is middle of the Lake) and returned back to hotel.
After Pokhara Valley sightseeing including Sarangkot, we headed on to Lumbini by Hiace which took us to reach there about six hours. We tried to enter Lumbini surroundings but unfortunately, the place was already closed. Then drove back to Bhairahawa and overnight stayed at Hotel Pawan International.

23 Nov, 2007: Bhairahawa -Sunauli Border
I still had to arrange next transportation to drop Sunauli border (which was about five KM far from the place at where we had spent last overnight stay) because the haice had only was managed for drop to Bhairahawa so they returned last night. After few negotiations with the owner, I managed the small maruti van and headed on to border. After ending part of Nepal side, we leaved the maruti van and crossed the border by ricksaw. To avoid to behave with Indian police, Dheeraj gave few Indian Rupees and cleared the luggage even if there were nothing illegal things inside the luggage except some clothes and daily needed things. Finally, the time came to be seperate each other -the five members team and me. They forwarded to Gorakhpur and I returned back to Kathmandu.

Ghorepani -Ghandruk Trek