Day 14: Chanaute -Kathmandu

06 May, 2007

The express bus service started thier service at 07:00AM from where we last overnight stayed. Took about 15 minutes to reach Gyalthung where we can find normal guesthouse and to Talamarang, a small market. It took us 02 hours to reach Zero Kilo where you can find pave road. Overall, we arrived Kathmandu in four hours (besides one hour traffic jam in Bhaktapur). The trip ended while we dropped Matt & Laura (Our guests during the trek) in thier hotel and receiving some "TIPS" from them. Seperating with them with happy face from hotel after saying "see you later".
Some places along the trail: Chanaute -Gyalthung -Talamarang -Zero Kilo -Panchkhal -Banepa -Bhaktapur -Kathmandu

Day 13: Magengoth -Chanaute

05 May, 2007

We started our walk down the trail, a beautiful path with rhododendron tres and dotted with wild primroses (little purple flowers) and other flowers started to walk at 06:30 in the morning from. After half an hour walk, we found another lodges -the lower part of Magengoth. The trail is almost fine but from here steep down. After our 04:30 hours walk to reach Kutumsang (our walking speed is too slow due to the Laura's knee soring), we took light lunch and started our walk immediately. There is two trail: the main and straight one is to Chisapani -the usual way and down from left side is to Chanaute -the nearer place to catch the bus.Before half an hour nearer to Chanaute, we faced most huge wind, hail and raining. I hadn't faced that much things altogether before. I was feeling that I am nearly flying with wind. I tightly caught my bag, closed my mouth and standing on. That was really interesting and adventure thing for my life. After our eleven and fifteen hours walk, finally we reached Mahankal/Chanaute. Overnight stayed at normal guest house, where we have no choose for food; only Dal Bhat.

Day 12: Ghopte -Magengoth

04 May, 2007
About the picture

The dotted with wild primroses and other flowers in this season are one compensation for the all-too-frequent rain, fog, and mist. According to Moti Nissani -one hiker to the Langtang reigon, have compared this flower with Mona Lisa. We can find these types of flower even in the top of Kyanjn RI (4510m).
Some places along the trail: Ghopte -Tharepati -Maengoth

Day 11: Gosainkund -Ghopte

03 May, 2007

Day 10: Cholangpati -Gosain

02 May, 2007

We woke six in the morning to see the sunrise views from fifteen up walk from our lodges from where we can see the superb view of Ganesh Himal Ranges (four mountains altogether), Tibetan and Langtang mountain ranges then returned back to hotel, took breakfast and walked steep up to Lauribina. After our one and half hour struggle to walk steep up, we reached Lauribina where we can found some hotels/restaurants better to take tea break. The trail is still steep up until Gosainkund pass, then starts flat. In total, it took us three hours to reach Gosainkund. When we cross the Gosanikund pass and some flat walk, we saw first lake named Saraswoti Kund, second is Parvati Kund, third is Bhairab Kund and fourth is Gosain Kund, which is bigger than others. Three of us (except Laura) did Kora (circuit) of the holy lake after lunch and took forty-five minutes to complete. The weather was foggy, healed and snow falling and the temperature was much cold (below than freezing!). Overnight stayed at Lakeside hotel.

GOSAINKUND

One day a shaman (priest or Lama claiming to communicate with gods) came and saw a snake lying at the bottom of the lake and decided to show his greatness. He ordered his wife for beating the drums faithfully otherwise his mission will not come true, no matter how frightened she may become. She promised to do it what her husband and did—until he emerged from the pond with the terrifying snake. At this point, she let go of the drums and decamped (depart suddenly) for her life. The snake then took to the lake again, with the poor shaman in toe. That's why the Gole (one Tamang ethnics) people, who are said to live far away from Nag Pond, in the lowlands, believe that, if they come to either Bhairab or Gosain Ponds, they would get sick and cold. This encounter between shaman and snake—and the snake that still resides at the lake—will make them dizzy and give them headaches (these are, more or less, the symptoms of altitude sickness) if they visit Nag Pond. So these people never come to Nag and Gosain Ponds. Some people believe that even now there are in fact two snakes in the waters of Nag Pond, which they see at times—they come out now and then, fight. If the white snake win, it brings good luck; of the black, disaster. One resident here saw the two snakes fighting, which the black won. Two days later her child died, even though until then he was perfectly healthy.

Some places along the trail: Cholang Pati –Lauribina –Gosainkund Pass –Gosainkund Lake

Day 09: Syabru -Cholangpati

01 May, 2007

After our morning as usual routine, we headed to Cholang Pati even though our itinerary was fixed for Sing Gompa. At the time of walking, a cad winds its way around our legs, meowing loudly, I immediately thought something wrong will be happen during the day! (In our Hinduism tradition, this is bad sign if cat crosses the ways while we starts walk). The path is steep, much steeper than other days, which we had walked. After walked up around two and half hour, crossing after villages and pasturelands, there is two way in the middle of jungle; first one is left which goes to Cholang Pati and next one is up which is to Sin Gompa (Chandan Bari).

Sing Gompa:

Sing Gompa is a village, which is famous for Yak Cheese. Here is cheese factory. It has Buddhist monastery, but no monks. Some people used to make their itinerary to go Sing Gompa but some makes directly go to Cholang Pati to observe the early morning sunrise view.

After our four hours continuously up walk, finally we arrived in Cholang Pati having gained 1384 meters elevation. We can see Langtang Lirung and Langtang II on the south side from Cholang Pati. We took lunch, rest and overnight stayed at Lirung View Hotel. Around the dinnertime, we found that Laura has headache problem. At last the said (the subject matter of bad signal of cat) came true, Laura felt headache more and we had to think for returning back if Laura’s condition will not improve tomorrow morning!

Day 08: Lama Hotel -Syabru

30 April, 2007
After breakfast at hotel, we started to walk down from Lama Hotel at 07:30AM to Rimche within thirty minutes, where you can find phone facility easily and cheaply. You can find the phone facility at Lama Hotel as well but the phone is not sustainable because sometime it does not work. Then we walked down to Bamboo and reached at one hour. Took small tea break and continuously walked down to Landslide (1800m) and reached at one and half hour, almost slope down. After taking small break at Landslide, our up-walk started from here towards Thulo Syabru and reached at one and half hour. Shyabru village is big village and you can find here almost facility such as electricity, hot shower and phone facility. Most of the buildings are modern types and locals are Sherpa majority. Overnight stayed at Langtang View Hotel.

Day 07: Kyanjin -Lama Hotel

29 April, 2007
After breakfast at hotel, we started to walk down from Kyanjin Gompa at 08:00 in the morning and it took us 01:45 hours to reach Langtang village where we had overnight stayed while walking up from Lama Hotel at 26 April –forth day. We took small tea break at Langtang village and started to walk down continuously. It took us 02 hours to reach Ghoda Tabela, which is perfect place to take lunch while you are returning from Kyanjin Gompa. We did it and explore few time there while taking lunch. We started walk down continuously to Riverside at one hour and to Lama Hotel at forty-five minutes. Today, we walked almost five hours thirty minutes down (two days camp at one day –it’s normal while you are walking down!) and overnight stayed at Tibet Guest House, the same guesthouse, which we used in 25 April –third day of our trekking.

Day 06: Rest at Kyanjin Gompa

28 April, 2007

We woke up at six in the morning and checked Laura's condition with Matt and we noticed that she is ok. After taking breakfast, we walked to Kyanjin RI at 07:30 with pack lunch (Tibetan bread and some chocolates for guests and we have som biscuits cookies -it's better to carry more than two liters water per person). After careful acclimatization, we reached up to Kyanjin RI, highest point for this time! And the views of Tserko RI, Yala Peak (near Tserko RI), Yansa Tsenji (6575m -we saw it first while we walked up from Kyanjin Gompa), Langtang Lirung on the north side, glaciers are near and amazing view. We saw Naya Kanga (5844m), Gon Shon Po, Dorje Lakpa on the south part. After exploring some hours on the top and took some photos, we returned back to hotel by the ridge of hill -the way is difficult and adventure. It's recommended to start up to Kyanjin RI as earlier as possible in the morning due to disturb of cloud and winds in the afternoon time. We returned back at hotel at 12:00PM and took shower. I read some book after taking lunch. We checked whether phone facility available because we had to inform at Kathmandu office that we are in Kyanjin Gompa. Here is phone facility but the rate is terrible, all calls at RS350 per minute. The temperature was freezing! Overnight stayed at same hotel.

Day 05: Langtang -Kyanjin

27 April, 2007

We started our trek at 08:00 in the morning after our daily routine (woke up, refreshed and took breakfast) and walked up smoothly. The trail was fine; slowly up, walked almost bank of river and surrounded by the Langtang Himalayan ranges. We reached Kyanjin Gompa at eleven in the morning after three hours walked up about 500m. After taking lunch, we started to hike toward the Kyanjin RI (4510m) but couldn't reach on the top due to the headache problem of Laura. We could reach at 4025m high within one and half hour and returned back to hotel. We talked with Matt about Laura's condition and checked that he have to return if case is serious. Finally, we decided to wait and see the condition till tommorrow morning and took short nap. Overnight stayed after taking diner at Yak Hotel, Kyanjin Gompa.

Day 04: Lama Hotel -Langtang

26 April, 2007
We woke up at 06:00AM and did regural routine and started our trek at 07:45AM. After some hours walk, we saw some parts of Langtang II (left) and Langtang Lirung (right side) from the way. We almost walked along the bank of Langtang River. The scene from Ghodatabela was awesome and this place is perfect for lunch as well. We saw langtang II (the shape is shart on the top and like Fishtail) and Langtang Lirung (7245m -the highest mountain in this region, shape is gigantic and shape like Dhaulagiri) on the north side from us, Gon Shon Po (6387m) on the right side, Tserko Ri (4984m -mountain with less snow) on the left side, Dorje Lakpa (6799m) on the backside of Gon Shon Po from Ghodatabela. We reached Langtang Village at 12:45PM and selected the Hotel Peaceful for overnight stay. The minimum temperature was about freezing -0 degree Celsius and windy too. We are almost walked 900m up this day and at 3320m. Overnight stayed at Hotel Peaceful, Langtang Village.

Day 03: Syabrubesi -Lama Hotel

25 April, 2007

We woke up at 06:00 in the morning, refreshed and took breakfast at hotel then started our trek at 08:15. The weather was pretty good but changed quickly. The trail from Syabrubesi to Bamboo (and all the way up beyond Kyangjin and Langshisa) follows for the most part the Langtang River gorge. The river itself, in most sections, is one continuous set of noisy rapids. During the monsoon season the trail is slippery, crossing heights and waterfalls. We reached Bamboo at three and half hour, the perfect place for lunch. We saw the possibility of raining and decided to take short break but started to rain so we changed our mind to take lunch for avoiding raining. Fortunately, the rain stop after we finished lunch then we walked up. I drank water a lot (nearly four liters per day) because we were walked up and up nearly 1000m. After walking two and half hours up, we reached Lama Hotel at 02:45PM and choose the lodge for overnight stay. The temperature was nearly freezing at morning and evening time as there was raining. Here is solar shower facilities. Overnight stay at Tibet Guest House, Lama Hotel.

Day 02: Dhunche -Syabrubesi

24 April, 2007

We woke up six in the morning and saw some parts of langtang ranges and Ganesh Himal from the rooftop of the Guest House even though the scene is very far. We started our trek at 08:30 after taking breakfast at hotel. We walked almost on the road. Most of people used to drive directly to Syaphrubesi from Kathmandu as there is road facility. However, walking to Syaphrubesi from Dhunche is much worth that bus drive; as we can see nice Tamang village, nice views of hills and mountain (without snow!), ,wondering views of steepy had rocks hills and terrance along the way. After two hours walk, there is one point (showing way to Syabrubesi) to seperate from road which is steeply down and short way but you can reach Syabrubesi even if you are following the road but takes bit long time. After our 04:30hrs walk, we reached at Syabrubesi around at 01:00PM. The temperature was fine (maximum: 26 & minimum: 02 degree Celsius). Light T-shirts and trouser/pant worked at teh walking period. We took lunch at 01:30PM and took short rest. We couldn't get the chance to explore Syabhrubesi village due to the raining in evening time. We found almost facilities (room is clear, hot shower at the hotel, telephone and internet facilities at the village) here. After taking dinner at 08:30 and short chat with trekkers, we overnight slept at Peaceful Lodge, Syabrubesi.

Day 01: Kathmandu -Dhunche

23 April, 2007

Our four people team (Matt and Laura as clients, Nawaraj -our guide and me as a porter again!) started to our six hours drive to Dhunche from Kathmandu by jeep in the morning at 09:00. We took lunch at Trishuli after we finished our fifty percent easy drive on paved road (three hours to reach Trishuli). After lunch, we started to drive unpaved road along the Trishuli River and reached Dhunche at 02:30PM. We selected the guesthouse called Langtang View at Dhunche for overnight stay and took small rest. Evening, explored around Dhunche Bazar, District Head Quarter of Rasuwa. I found our trekkers (Matt and Laura) more concerned about Environmental pollution and global warming of travel destinations as they had visited already some cities of India where they saw much warm and polluted. We took dinner at 08:00 in the evening and overnight stayed at Langtang View Hotel, Dhunche.

Next opportunity began!!

22 April, 2007
Next opportunity began! I got the chance to be a porter of next trip 14 Days Langtang -Gosanikund Trek -A Lazy Hiker's Paradise, which includes the foothills of the Himalayas just north of Kathmandu, as well as a few high-altitude ponds (Gosainkund and others). The trip started at 23 April 2007 and ended at 06 May, 2007. I purchased some trekking materials, packed my stuffs and ready to leave. I had more excited with Gosainkund, holy lake for Hinduism. The exciting thing to me is crossing the Lauribina Pass which is in the height of 4610m, my highest point till the date. Anyway, I was ready to depart the trekking with two Canadian trekkers named Matt Gibson and Laura.

Proud to be a porter!!

12 April, 2007
My duty was carrying the luggage and learning about the first aid training during the seven days trip. I was less nervous while I was starting the trek because that was my first trip and hadn't any experience about being porter in the Nepal Himalayas. The friendly behave with otehr peoples such as other Nepalese staffs, other trekkers, lodges and guesthouses staffs made me easy any comfortable. Our guests behaved us as a friend more than porter. The slogan of our company had "If you don't look after your porters, who will?". I felt myself reality with this slogan while I trekked with "Himalayan Humanity Trekking (P.) Ltd" and its clients. At the end, I felt proudly myself of being porter of my company where I am working.

Day 07: Ghandruk -Kathmandu

11 April, 2007

We woke up earlier than six in the morning. Jason took some photos of Annapurna South and mine on the background of Annapurna South. Tea was ready and I took tea then we waited for breakfast. The breakfast was arrived for foreigners lately at around 07:10 AM but we still waited for ours. We waited our breakfast till 07:45 but not arrived then we decided to avoid it. After we carried our baggage, they came with their breakfast. I couldn’t have changed my decision and waited outside of the guesthouse until two of others took (That was next example of porter discrimination, I had get -some staffs were saying that it is normal in trekking route and I also took it easily) then walked down towards Syaulibazar and I took some coconut crunches as a breakfast while others were taking water break. The trail is almost downhill and nothing interesting views can be seen besides the village terrace. We reached Nayapul around 11AM; Nayapul is the trek ending point from where trekkers used to take either taxi or bus to Pokhara. After forty-five minutes drive by taxi from Nayapul, we reached Pokhara at 11:45AM and proceeded to end the trek. We said goodbye to Jason & Lindsay after we reached the same hotel where they had lived before. After some minutes, both of them (Jason & Lindsay) came towards us and said that they forgot to give “Some Tips” to us, which we hadn’t expected because that trek was a volunteer trek itself. We became happy and gave thankful from our hearts of their respect towards staffs. Then we took local bus to Kathmandu same day and reached Kathmandu in the evening.

Day 06: Tadapani to Ghandruk

10 April, 2007

After taking breakfast at early morning as usual time, earlier than Seven, we walked down to Ghandruk. After about thirty minutes walk, we reached Bhaisikharka, small restaurants are available at Bhaisikharka and we took some tea and started our walk continuously. Nothing special view can be seen along the trail besides small hills and rhododendron forests. Somewhere, the trail is landslide and sleepeery as well. We found small restaurants on the way when we walked about 30 minutes down then we saw great view of Machhapuchhre, Annapurna, Hiunchuli, Annapurna South and small part of Dhaulagiri at our left side while we reached small pasture. The trail is sleepery and muddy after raining and snowing; there is one difficult step to cross so get help with your staffs or who will infront of you. After one hour fourty five minutes walk from Bhaisikharka, we reached Ghandruk. After lunch and nap, we excursed around the Ghandruk village (a park inside school, helipad and gurung villages. There is one museum as well where you can find some gurung materials and the entrance fee is about NRS30); Ghandruk village is the second largest village for the Gurung etnics. Some houses are traditional gurung types but most of others are mordern because most tourists are entered at Ghandruk village and people makes house as guest house style. As we reached earlier our today's stop point, we took two classes of first aid. Overnight stayed at Annapurna Guest House.

Some places along the trail: Tadapani -Bhaisikharka -Ghandruk (1940m)

Day 05: Ghorepani -Tadapani

After two full nights spent at Ghorepani, we started to walk Tadapani in the early morning as usual time. We finished the way Deurali (including Deurali Pass -3090m) within one and half hour bit steep up, the Himalayan Ranges of Machhapuchhre, Annapurna South and Dhaulagiri are on the left side. The view is excellent from the hill near Deurali Pass. We walked down by sleepery, muddy path through deep forests from Deurali. Along the trail we found Banthanti (2660m) and Tadapani (2630m). Don't confuse with this Banthanti because it is different than that Banthanti the way of Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani. This is also a good place to take lunch. It took us to reach Banthanti about one and half hour. Tadapani is not so far from here as we took the time of forty minutes to reach there. In total, it took us about four hours to reach Tadapani. From Banthanti, the trail is bit down and we have to cross one bridge and walk aout 25 minutes up then we reach Tadapani. The scene of the mountain ranges of Machhapuchhre, Hiunchuli, Annapurna ranges and Dhaulagiri etc. looks like very near and not much up from here. Overnight stayed at Himalayan Tourist Hotel at Tadapani.

Day 04: Rest at Ghorepani!

08 April, 2007

Early morning at five A.M., we walked up to Poonhill to see the Annapurna, Dhaulagiri Himalayan ranges and first sunrise view. After fourty-five minutes walk, we reached on the top of Poonhill (3210m) from where, we saw machhapuchhre -Fishtail (6993m), Gangapurna Himal (7454m), Hiunchuli (6434m), Annapurna South (7219m), Baraha Sikhar -Fang (7647m), Annaurna I -world's 10th highest peak (8091m), Nilgiri, Tukuche Peak (6920m), Dhaulagiri Himalayan Ranges (I, II, IV and III) and Gurja PEak respectively from left. Fortunately, the weather was clear. The view was stunning when the first sunrays went directly to the gigantic Dhaulagiri from Machhapuchhre (that scene was really magnificient and trekkers used to walk up to poonhill to see see this view). According to villagers, many travellers had not got the chance to see the Himalayan ranges from Poonhill since 3-4 days because of weather problem.
According our previous plan, today, we had to walk toward Tadapani but teh plan is changed due to the altitude problem of Jason (Lindsay also had normal cough problem) and they became more conscious as they are expert on first aid treatment. His face had changed into light yello and decided to change the plan for taking rest at Ghorepani. Due to jason's international flight, the whole plan was changed. Instead of going Annapurna Base Camp, we cut off the previous plan and made it shorter (Ghorepani -Tadapani -Ghandrug -Pokhara). We took rest at Ghorepani for a whole day because we had to cross the Deurali Pass (3090m), which is higher than Ghorepani (2860m) so it would be problem for themselves. Evening, we took a class of first aid training. Overnight stayed at same hotel.

Day 03:Tikedhunga-Ghorepani

07 April, 2007

After our breakfast earlier than seven in the morning, we started our trek by walking uphill of Ulleri. It took us about one hour to reach the top of Ulleri -Steeply up way. Then we climbed gently through pastures and cultivated fields, which soon give way to deep forests as teh trail climbed to Banthanti, a settlement of hotels, the appropriate place for lunch. After finished the place Banthanti, we were starting to walk Nangethanti (a rest house in a forest clearing at 2460m) by magnificient oak and rhododendron forests. It took us to reach Ghorepani about one hour from here. We saw some parts of Poonhill near from Ghorepani. As this is my first trip and second day of trekking, I felt myself, why these crazy guys are walking that much uphill and downhill until we reached Ghorepani because we couldn't see any scene of mountain ranges along the way. We registered the permit number at teh checkpoint at Ghorepani and walked towards our guesthouse named Kamala Lodge, Deurali, Ghorepani. We can saw the Annapurna South in from of us then others mountains such as Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, Tukuche, Hiunchuli etc. from Ghorepani. Overnight stayed at Ghorepani.
Some place along the trail: Tikhedhunga -Ulleri (1960m) -Banthanti (2210m) -Nangethanti (2460m) -Ghorepani (2860m)

Day 02: Pokhara -Tikhedhunga

06 April 2007

We walked to the guest house named Lubly Jubly at six in the where our two trekkers stayed. After one hour walk, finally we found that guest house and informed them -we arrived! then tried to sit lobby of the hotel, but forced us to stay outside of hotel (I thought that was the discrimination of Nepalese staffs, especially to the porter and that was my first experience being discriminated as a porter!). After ACA permit received (Annapurna Conservation Area Project in Pokhara, Lake side –early morning at 07:30), we drove up to Nayapul about 45 minutes by taxi. Took some snacks and tea at Nayapul and started to trek up to Tikhedhunga. We crossed the Nayapul (Naya means new and pul means bridge, but the bridge was old itself), and then reached Birethanti then to Hile. Staying at Hile is fine if we couldn’t reach to Tikhedhunga because there are few guesthouses/ lodges. After out three hours trek from Nayapul, we reached Tikhedhunga (some trekkers used to stay at Ulleri, about one hour uphill from Tikhedhunga). The trail is fine, no steeper up/down. Overnight stayed at Laxmi Lodge, Tikhedhunga.

Place along the trail: Pokhara –Hyanja (1070m -the starting point of 2 days Ghachhok trek) –Phedi (1130m) –Naudanda (1440m) –Kande (1770m) –Lumle (1610m) –Nayapul (1070m) –Birethanti (1025m) –Sudame (1340m) –Hile (1430m) –Tikhedhunga (1540m)

Day 01: Kathmandu -Pokhara

05 April 2007:

We departed to Bus Park with our baggage for Pokhara. It took us about six hours to reach Pokhara because that was local bus. Then we searched the guesthouse as cheap as possible near Prithvi Chowk, less touristy area of Pokhara. We found one cheap guesthouse and planned to spend out whole night there even though that was not so good. We got the phone call from office and got the meeting time with our guests at 07:00AM in the next morning. Overnight stayed that guesthouse, three different bed in one room.

Opportunity Begins!!

04 April, 2007
"To begin with, there is the search for beauty; one goes to nature for the same reasons one goes to an art museum" -Moti Nissani Department of Interdisciplinary Studies, 5700 Cass, Wayne State University, Detroit, Michigan 48202, USA
My first trip was 10 Days Annapurna Sanctuary Trek (Annapurna Base Camp) working as a porter. Two volunteers (Canadian and American guys) from Volunteerabroad were planning to do this trip and three of us were as porters. All of us took it as a training because we had to know about the first aid training for immediate help to peoples who faces some injury in the Nepal mountain.

Why I am creating this blog??

I involved in Tourism sector since 2000 but have no experience of the Nepal Himalaya as I am working as a office staff (field staff is those who works in the field -Nepal Himalaya). I am trying to be a porter because this is starting phase. My first trip to Nepal himalaya was 05th of April 2007 as a porter but I was late to begin my blog because of the lack of internet facilities in the Nepal Himalayas and next trip started immediately when I finished my first trip. I will post my trip details later or sooner after the trip finished but do not think that I am lost.

Thanks for visiting me!

Krishna Lamsal
Trekking in the Nepal Himalayas
Kathmandu, Nepal
Cell No: +977-9841595093